a Seattle Life

You must think I deserted you all. Since my return from Buenos Aires in mid-November it seems my domestic existence has been well ordinary. Sure there was the trip to the Woodhaven Veterinary where they extracted 4 teeth during my dental cleaning. Then came the fabulous City Dog Magazine soiree at the W Hotel where I mingled with Seattle’s canine glitterati. And let’s not forget my failed trip to visit Santa at Northgate Mall. How embarassing to be publicly snubbed by that insipid fat elf. Really!

But then something wonderful happened at my house. No, not Christmas though I do really like the indoor tree if you know what I mean. What I’m talking about is our newest family addition. Bellatrix, or Trixie, is a 7 lb Poodle Chihuahua mix from Californina. Oddly, a place I haven’t visited yet. There she was surrendered to a shelter because her family lost their house to foreclosure. Papa says it is a common casualty where the housing market was hit hardest after the bubble burst. That must have been some big bubble.

The New Arrival - Trixie

Anyway, the shelter was so full that Trixie got a one way ticket up the West Coast. Papa says it’s better than the alternative – not sure what he means. Lucky for her, Ginger’s Pet Rescue took her into their care. After the usual medical check-up, grooming and even spaying (she’s already had a litter of pups) she received foster care from volunteer, Amber Wolfer. Man oh man, if my papas fostered pets we’d be in deep trouble by now.

So yesterday, the Papas went off to run a few errands and find a place to recycle some ink cartridges. In the past Petsmart on Aurora Ave N had a program that provided a charitable contribution to animal shelters when you donated your empties. And while that arrangement is currently suspended, they were holding an adoption day. It didn’t take long before Trixie’s intrinsic beauty, much like my own, captured my (our) papas’ hearts. It even turns out her adoption fee is a tax deduction.

Things are going well so far. Like Max and I, she likes to lounge on the fainting couch where the heating blanket is set to 6. That way we can keep a close eye on papas working at the dining room table. It appears she’s also up to speed and knows when it’s time to go outside though the dog flap is going to take some time. She’s quiet most of the time and pretty much comes when she’s called. Personally, I like to play hard to get.

So that should bring you up to speed on things in my life. It won’t be long now before 2010 gets started and the quiet relaxed state of the holidays is just a dim memory. Let me know what’s going on with you. I’d love to know if there are still warm days anywhere outside this chilly region. Not like it’s North Dakota but it’s still cold. Meanwhile I will long for the days when I can once again sun on the back deck while Max and Otis wash my face.

I’ve been home now for several days enjoying my memories of Buenos Aires. Delicious steaks, pretty architecture and Tango dancing are just a few things that cross my mind. But I have to admit it wasn’t a city that brought about ‘love at first sight’. Being greeted by a late spring climate that merges Louisiana humidity with California style smog doesn’t exactly inspire walking - my papas preferred mode of touring.

So it took a few days and a change in mindset before the charms of “Baires” began to emerge. Some insight from our friends Sabrina and Blake were also very helpful. Soon we were looking for experiences rather than locations. A day trip to Uruguay, Tango lessons at a real Milonga, a Gaucho Festival with traditional barbeque and even shopping for leather jackets made all the difference. Learning about the ‘Portenos’ culture and how they live proved a more enjoyable approach then spending time in museums or art galleries.

When it came to food and dining the neighborhood parrillas easily met our cravings. Whether hungry for a large lunch around mid-afternoon or dinner promptly at 10 pm, you found plenty of menu choices. Pizza, omelettes, steak or chicken were pretty much always on the “carte”. Oddly, local farming and ranching practices meant a juicy steak was no more expensive than scrambled eggs with ham. A party of two (I just nibble from my papas plates) can eat well for about $15US. So go ahead and have papa fritas with your hamburgesa? But opt for cerveza or vino when it comes to a beverage since an 8 oz Coca (cola) or 12 oz water costs about $2US. 

Just using the Subte system or simply walking we saw many of Buenos Aires districts – Palermo, Recoleta, Retiro, Monserrat and San Telmo all offered uniques elements.  Retail stores are commonly found on the street level of many buildings particularly those on busier streets. Funny thing, each store seems to specialize in a single service or product. Papa was really amused by the shop that sold only remote controls. And often multiple providers for a single service like dentistry concentrate in close proximity.

Regardless of whether it’s a residential or commercial building, maintenance of the sidewalk out front was the owner’s responsibility. This meant you could encounter granite tile, terracota brick and stamped concrete along the same block. It also results in inconsistent walking surfaces that can challenge even the most skilled pedestrian. Did I mention that dog owners tended not to pick up after their pets. Needless to say, it took my papas a little while to get the hang of the hop, skip and jump techniques necessary to maneuver BA’s tree-lined avenues and streets.

One of the most difficult elements to share are the sounds of South America’s 2nd largest metropolitan area. It isn’t enough to say it is noisy. I am convinced there isn’t a quiet street in the entire city. The number of trucks, buses and cabs crowding the roads provided a carcophany of horns, squeels and rumbles at all hours making ear plugs for sleeping a must. Occassionally while sitting at a cafe or park bench we  would hear a bird whose song seemed to last forever. Even the alarms issued by opening garage doors made for a symphony of beeping as though fast food fryerlators were lining the streets. But I guess that’s just a part of living the  Argentine urban life. 

You didn’t have to search hard to find a couple demonstrating traditional or contemporary Tango dance steps around tourist spots. You wouldn’t get too far without seeing a reference to Shakira (a native) and Madonna – though some locals disdain the diva’s  portrayal of Eva Peron. For that matter, you can hardly pass a day without  someone mentioning ‘Evita’.  And then there was the recorded 80′s music often played in stores.  Nice to know that Muzak exists outside of US elevators and waiting rooms.

Without any bias I must say my favorite part of the trip was meeting the warm and friendly people. Although my papas kept a close watch on me, people would commonly stop to pat my head or scratch my neck. And everyone seemed to want to know my weight and age. At just 1.5 kilos many mistook me for a puppy though I’m already 2.5 yrs old. Must be good genes. They also appeared amused by my mode of transportation where I sould sit peeking out of the Marsupack that papa strapped across his chest. Other papa called it “riding the elephant.” (That was a bad night.) And while most passerbys recognized me to be the regal Chihuahua I am, a few thought me a Pincher. Really!

So don’t cry for me Argentina. The truth is I’m happy to be back with my brothers hiding under the warm blankets and pillows. My trip was a great experience and one I would recommend to all. Make sure you don’t isolate yourself within the confines of an American style hotel. B&Bs like Vida Baires provide a lovely opportunity to meet the wonderful people and learn more about the day to day life of the residents. I will truly miss my new friends and the warm weather but at least have Facebook and email to transcend the miles and time zones. 

Until my next adventure,

Stella Luna XOX

PS. I miss you Renata, Miss Pipi and Augusto.

Now entering our last weekend in ‘Baires’, we joined forces with our American friend Blake for some sightseeing. First on the list was a visit to Chinatown in the Belgrano district though it’s not much more than two blocks long. It seems they only recently erected a San Francisco style gate at the entrance to the neighborhood. We spied specialty goods and cooking ingredients along the street vendors and mercados. Blake picked up some ground ginger. We shopped an open air crafts market enroute to the subte.

Next we headed back to Recoleta so Blake could drop off his purchases before walking to La Cocina – a must do according to his wife Jennifer and my vet. Having tasted a few empinadas during the week we weren’t expecting much but these little turnover like meat pies were scrumptious. They even served carne picante (spicey beef) not common in a portenos’ diet. We’re going to have to make a repeat trip before too long.

Jacuranda Petals

After lunch we headed to Plaza Italia and walked around the areas of Palermo Gardens. Here you will find the botanical gardens, the zoo, polo grounds and a man-made lake. It was all very lovely and a sight for sore eyes considering what little green space this city has. Eventually we found our way to Las Canitas where we enjoyed some cold beverages and munchies at a sidewalk cafe opened in 1935. Our waitress had just returned from California.

Since the sun was setting we headed back to our hotel for a nap before joining up with Blake for dinner at a Parrilla called Pippo’s. This was another one of Jennifer’s favorites. It was absolutely delicious. Where else can you get a 10oz top sirloin steak cooked to perfection for $6US? Afterward we stopped at a gelateria like they have in Italy for a little dessert. All I can say it was a good thing we walk a lot every day.

Sunday was a day of shopping (yippee!) and dancing. We started at the Recoleta Crafts Market around 1pm just outside the cemetary we visited last

Signa la vaca

 week. There were many beautiful items on display. Around 2:30pm we took a cab over to San Telmo to walk along Defensa Avenue, visit the antique market and eat lunch across from Plaza Dorrego where the Tango dancers perform. The atmosphere was very lively with a variety of musical performances, street artists, bullmarkets and a crush of people. It would be an understatement to say it was the popular place to be.

Once we finished our hamburgesas y chopp, we strolled a little more before finding the location of the 5pm Tango classes for men. Papas, no longer just wall flowers, actually participated in the lessons. It looked like they had fun and neither were injured so I’ll count it as a success. The same instructor from La Marshall was present. He is a patient and humorous teacher. His knowledge of Tango and it’s ealry history really added a depth to the classroom work. I wonder if papas will keep up their dance moves back in the states.

Well tomorrow is our last day here in Buenos Aires. It has been a wonderful trip where I have met very friendly people who love life and especially love their dogs. Besides my pink leather coat and my wonderful new collar I leave here with happy memories. It is not the easiest city to visit but once you’re here you can’t help but wonder when you next visit might be.

Adios Argentina!

XOX,

Stella Luna

It seems ages since we had our midnight dinner following the Tango lessons. As you might have already guessed, we slept in very late the next day. Somewhere in the late afternoon we went for a stroll in the Palermo neighborhood where galleries, cafes and shops abound. Papas stopped for an ice cream at Freddo’s. Later we had pasta in a corner Parrissa where the waiter drew us a picture of Washington state to show he knew where we lived. Pictionary always helps to bridge language barriers. Charades works too.

Our next day began when a private car arrived to take us on a fashion adventure. The vehicle pretty much fit the description of the type guide books warn about. I guess the thrill of a custom made jacket overruled our senses. A quick 20 minutes and we found ourselves inside the garment factory’s showroom. Upon entry we were greeted by Gisela and Ester who helped papas peruse the merchandise.

There were many choices of leather jackets, slacks and purses. Papas each chose coats that reflected their individual styles. Adjustments to zippers, collars and even color were taken in stride. What really caught the ladies off guard was my papas requests to make me a jacket. They acted like they’d never had such a request. With only a moment’s delay a designer was brought out to review a basic pattern my papa drew. She quickly added a collar with silver studs and velcro snaps. But it was the arrival of the hot pink leather sample that made me squeal.

Before we left the shop we stopped and looked at a jewelry display that included leather and silver wrist bands (or collars to  petite Chihuahuas like me). Much to my surprise the clerk gave it to me as a gift. She must have noticed the special twinkle in my eye. A coat and accessories in one short shopping spree – yippee! The ride back to our hotel on Gallo Ave was uneventful though the car was more dreadful than the earlier one. Luckily we made it home just before a heavy rainstorm confined us indoors for several hours.

Later the same evening we headed out for dinner at Garden Restaurante. One papa feels vacationing in foreign lands requires a meal at a Chinese eatery. Oddly, portenos seemed to have a dislike for Asian cuisine which made it difficult to identify a good place. Fortunately we lucked out and had a delicious meal set in an old world ambience. Like their American counterparts, they appeared to do a brisk take-out business. With full tummies we headed back for a good night’s rest.

Chau,

Stella Luna

The name of the hotel where we are staying is Vida Baires. That’s slang for ‘a Buenos Aires life’. Funny when you consider my website’s name is ‘a Seattle life’. And in some ways these very different cities share some things in common but you have to look closely.

Beyond the crowded sidewalks and the ceaseless traffic live the portenos. That’s what Argentines call themselves. For the most part I have found them to be people who love their pets. They take pride in their cat, dog or even bunny. And one look at me and they go on and on with my papas about their little ones. It doesn’t matter whether the person is a resident of Palermo or La Boca, pets are typically part of the family.

Yesterday after our (now) usual late start, we took a 3 hour guided tour of the city’s neighborhoods. The air conditioned bus and English-speaking host were a welcome change to the endless walking of prior days. At least that’s what papa says. First we were driven through the more modern enclaves of Ricoleta, Palermo, Centro and Retiro. These are the fashionable districts. Then we visited Monserrat, San Telmo and La Boca which are the oldest parts of the city. It’s also where Tango first took hold.

Along the way the bus stopped several times for a quick photo or bio-break. I did ‘my business’ at the giant flower sculpture. TMI? All in all it was very interesting and enjoyable. I guess my papas were plenty refreshed since they decided to walk back from Plaza San Martin (national hero). About half way, we stopped for a small pizza, papa fritas and duos agua sin gas (bottled water). The wait staff were very happy to see me. Meal done, we continued our trek.

We rested a few hours in our room before cabbing it back to the Microcenter neighborhood to find La Marshall. No, not the discount shopping store. It is a Milonga Gay where anything goes when it comes to the Tango. Lessons were already underway when we arrived. The hostess seated us at a table in front of a long wall covered with mirrors.

On the dance floor were male couples and female couples following the instructor’s directions. It was delightful to watch and I tried to keep a low profile so my pretty Tango dress didn’t distract the dancers. As the hour or so passed others filled the dance hall. When the lessons concluded general dancing began. I was surprised to see that the ‘couples-in-training’ weren’t couples at all. I guess that’s why the Tango seems so sexy.

We stopped at a restaurant about 12:30 am to get dinner before catching a cab back to our hotel. It’s always exhilirating to take a spin in the black & yellow vehicles that crowd the streets here. And while these drivers certainly handle their horsepower,  you can’t help but gasp on some maneuvers. Sadly I think they have poor eyesight. They can’t seem to see where the lane lines are. Nothing like a little rush before bed.

Chau,

Stella Luna

Once again we were up at 6am to prepare for our day. The City Taxi arrived before 7am to take us to Colonia Express’ embarkation (especial for dogs?) docks where we boarded the boat for Colonia, Uruguay. After clearing both countries customs check points we jumped on board for the 1 hour transfer. A little nap along the way never hurt anyone.

After the temporary loss of a cell phone and mix up with guides (one didn’t speak English), we began a walking tour of the old town area. As a remote outpost turned vacation getaway, we were immediately thrown back in time to the days when Spain and Portugal battled for hundreds of years over the strategic location. (insert map of colonia). The architecture and building materials told a story of cultural transitions. The Portuguese used slate where the Spanish preferred grantis and brick. There are also some British Viceroy influences in later buildings.

Today the town features plenty of renovated buildings that house paddillas (restaurants), hotels and shops. We found one immediately after the tour that had an Uruguay patch perfect for my travel bag. The location of our pre-arranged lunch at Don Germanias meant a liesurely stroll down the main street of town. Once there we were treated to tasty if not greasy sandwich of steak, ham, cheese and egg with fries. Beverages (bebidas) were extra. Before long, we were joined by others from the boat including a large group of American students studying Spanish.

Before we headed to the boat papas visited the Post Office for postcard stamps. They were pretty pink triangles that cost 17 pesados (Uruguayan) or about $1 US. We also stopped at the Cambio to get smaller bills ($10) for our cab ride back to the hotel once we reached BA. Taxi drivers don’t appreciate making change and (some) will pass counterfeit bills so it’s best to have exact change. 

The delightful weather, clean air and quiet surrounds made it difficult to head back to the boat. But it wasn’t long before we were back in Argentina and back at Vida Baires, our hotel.  Don’t tell anyone, but papas took me to the McDonald’s on Avendidas Santa Fe for a Big Mac & Quarter Pounder with cheese. While we did the American thing and carried our order on trays to the upstairs eating area, you could sit on the lower level and dine with real plates and flatware. Sadly we didn’t stop at the heladios (ice cream) window on our way out.

Chau,

Stella Luna

I thought vacations meant sleeping late, lying by the pool, sipping cocktails and getting a massage. My papas have another idea. Though we had a leisurely Saturday evening and ate in our rooms, it was just more or less a rest up for another 6am alarm. We needed to be ready for Blake’s 7am arrival when we headed straight away to the bus station. Well, at least we took a taxi and didn’t have to walk.

Bus travel is somewhat interesting here. You have a bus company name, departure time and seat assigment. But they only give you a range of gates where the bus might embark. Thankfully our bi-lingual companion was versed in the language of “Greyhound” as well as Spanish.

It took us about 2 hours to make it from Buenos Aires to San Antonio de Areco where the Gaucho Festival took place. Along the way we transitioned from dense urban neighborhoods to open land speckled with cows, horses, sheep and haciendas. We also spied what are known as ‘telos’ or trist motels like the Kiss Me hotel. They conveniently line the highways and serve a practical purpose but I’ll have to explain that another time.

Once we made it to the quaint and clean outpost we walked the mile from the bus terminal to the town square. It wasn’t long before the festivities began. A marching band made its way down the main street to a grandstand full of dignitaries. The crowd stood up while the national anthem was played. It was part instrumental and part lyrical. I could feel my heart beating with pride for those around me.

Next, the different group representatives arrived to receive their flags and commendations then everyone headed down to the town park for a ‘giganti barbeque’. There were demonstrations made by gauchos and their horses. Gauchos, by the way, are like Amercan cowboys but their way of life is more of an occupational society. Children are indoctrinated as early as 2 years old when they mount their first horse. It’s very steeped in tradition. I thought maybe those macho hombres wouldn’t care about a girl like me but they were very attentive.

After about 4 hours of dust and dirt we returned to Buenos Aires. Following a two hour rest and a little freshening up, we joined Blake for an evening meal. Bushed from our early rise we headed back to our hotel for some shut eye. Monday looks like a slow day but Tuesday we’re at it again when we take a ferry trip to Uruguay for the day.  I just hope it doesn’t rain.

Chau,

Stella Luna

After our ‘death march’ around the San Telmo district in search of cobblestone streets and the farmer’s market, an evening nap was in order. Somewhat refreshed we headed out to dinner around 10pm with our friend, Blake. He took us on a brief tour of the local area showing us some places to eat – one was called the Happy Cat. We ended up at a Parrilla (pronounced Parrissa) to enjoy some traditional beef and pasta dishes. Two in our party shared a bottle of wine while one papa had a ‘forty ouncer’ of Stella (cute, huh?) Artois. Let’s just say one papa snored really loud when we hit the sack around 1:30am.

Now my papas have been out of training for some time so an early morning was out of the question. I think we finally hit the street about 2:20pm this afternoon and hopped the Subte’s green (d) line down to Plaza de Mayo. We wanted to check out the Buenos Aires Pride fair and march. Since things didn’t really get underway until 18:00 hrs we took another turn around San Telmo to find lunch and sightsee. I also met lots of people who wanted to pat my head and scratch my ear. Can’t say I complained.

The rally turned out to be a very grassroots event, not overprocessed and really well attended. There were thousands of people gathered in the same square where Eva Peron made her speeches from the Presidential Palace. There was also some other very impressive architecture nearby. Buenos Aires is a leader when it comes to Domestic Partnership rights just like Seattle. Once the sun set and the random firework started discharging it was time to head home for a quiet evening. On our way, we met a stray dog on the subway and gave her my chicken leftovers from lunch. She seemed like a good pup and appreciated the small meal. Tomorrow we are taking a 2 hour bus ride at 7:40am to a Gaucho festival in the countryside. I’ll tell you all about it next.

Now where was I? Oh yes, I was going to tell you about our trip yesterday to the cemetary. Did I already mention having jet lag? Well we got a late start and headed out to a part of town just east of our hotel called Ricoleta. There we found a New Orleans like graveyard which holds many historical figures or should I say their grave sites. Since the area for burial plots has long been maxed out, the only thing they could do was dig down.

So underneath these impressive monoliths of marble, granite and steel are often several subterranean levels. The above ground part almost serves as a kiosk entry to the dearly departed below. What’s really cool (or creepy) are the visible coffins resting on shelves at each depth. Not all tombs are well maintained and even more erie, some of the coffins are in decay. It makes me shiver just remembering.

We of course sought out the final resting place of Eva (Evita) Perone. There were plenty of tourists crowding around including a loud mouthed woman from Texas who was giddy expaining to her caller (she was on the cell phone) that she was in Argentina and had her phone updated to accept international calls. We quickly made our get away before being choked by the abundant Aqua Net fumes. Before leaving the gates we did get a quick tour by an old man and his grandson showing us the Italian made monuments. Papas were caught off guard when he insisted they give him money. He called Papa a Porqo (pig)! If I wasn’t so refined I might have bit him.

Today we headed out to San Telmo. It’s a quaint part of the city where antique stores and other shops abound. Unfortunately, one papa didn’t have a good day reading maps. It took us about 3 hours and many extra steps to finally find what we wanted. Along the way we did happen upon a lunch place called Padilla el Carne. I wasn’t allowed to eat at the table but Papas saved me some of their delicious meals. We finally made it to the Mercado de San Telmo a while later. I was certain I would get some bling for being such a good passenger but nada. We eventually made our way home by subway (Subte).

The papas are really tired but have plans to meet a friend for dinner tonight at 10pm. Meals are kind of crazy here. Lunch is 2 hours long and usually a big meal. Breakfast and supper are small. Then everyone has dinner well after 9pm. If this keeps up I’ll become a night owl instead of a Chihuahua. I think that’s all I have for now. Maybe I should get a little shut eye too before we head out again. Now where did I put my earplugs?

Ciao,

Stella Luna

Anyway, we made our 7:30am flight with very little trouble. The airline had me in their registry – often they forget me if you can believe it. The check-in and security clearance went smooth.  Next thing you know we were headed to Dulles. As usual, I caught the eye of the flight attendants. Poor ladies, always having to leave their little ones behind. But how they do like to dote on me. It made the 4 hour flight go by quickly.

Some of papa’s college friends collected us at the airport and took us to Reston Town Center where we had dinner. I had met Linda when she visited Seattle last November. It was a first for Paula and John who seemed very sweet. I hope we keep in touch. Our 7 hour layover would have been boring and long without their company. Soon enough we were aboard our next flight for the 10 hour overnight journey to Buenos Aires. As hard as it is to stay comfortable in my Marsupack, my papas were certainly challenged by the cramped economy seating. Not sure they got much sleep.

We arrived in Argentina around 10am on November 4th. Our passage through Immigrations and Customs was lengthy but uneventful. You’d think they would want to take a closer look at me. We arranged for a taxi to the Barrio Norte district after a quick stop at the Cambio. And let me tell you, our driver could just have easily worked the streets of Manhattan.

We’re now tucked away in our hotel room with 14 ft ceilings, hardwood floors and a private bath across the hall. The street noise is somewhat a challenge but I don’t think there’s a quiet street in BA. Anyway, we need to get prepared for a little evening jaunt – a girl needs her nourishment. I’ll tell you all about our adventures at the Ricoleta Cemetary in my next post.

Ciao,
Stella

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